Rosh Hanikra & Nahariya
From Rosh Hanikra’s glowing grottoes to Nahariya’s breezy promenade, this trip is packed with beauty. Achziv Beach brings laid-back charm, while the Kaziv River steals the show with its amazing nature, shaded paths, and refreshing flowing water. Northern Israel at its best.
Written By Zvika Gasner Koheleth 12-December-2024 (Originally 28-June-2020, Edited 24-Aug-2020) Pictures by Angela Hechtfisch
Rosh Hanikra
Rosh Hanikra sits at Israel’s northwestern tip, just a few steps from the Lebanese border, and it feels like the kind of place nature spent extra time designing. Perched on the dramatic Sulam Ridge above the Mediterranean, the cliffs have been hammered by waves for thousands of years, slowly carving out the famous sea grottoes — long, glowing tunnels where water, light, and rock create an unreal atmosphere.
The fun begins with the one-minute cable-car ride, dropping you from cliff-top views straight down to sea level. Once inside, you walk through smooth white chalk passages shaped entirely by nature, hearing the waves echo around you as you explore. The path is easy, comfortable, and perfect for absolutely everyone — kids, adults, grandparents, and anyone who loves a little adventure mixed with a lot of scenery.
The History of Rosh Hanikra
Back in 1941, the British army took on a massive year-long project: carving a railway straight through the mountain at Rosh Hanikra. Their goal was ambitious — to link the African–Asian rail line from Tunisia and Egypt all the way up through Israel, Lebanon, and Syria, creating a strategic route across the Levant. This wasn’t about sightseeing; it was a wartime move meant to boost British mobility and strengthen their position against Germany and its allies during World War II.
The railway operated until 1947. Then, just before Israel’s War of Independence in 1948, fighters from the Haganah’s Carmeli Brigade set out to blow up the tunnel. Their mission was to disrupt the connection between Palestinian forces in Haifa and Acre and the Lebanese side. The tunnel itself survived the blast, but the railway didn’t — service stopped entirely, and it never returned.
There’s also a fun audio-visual show inside the northern tunnel, which is cleverly turned into a mini-cinema. It’s a great way to dive into the history of the site, though during the COVID period it was temporarily closed due to health regulations.
Tickets cost 48 shekels for adults, and the wait for the cable car is usually pretty reasonable — about 10 to 15 minutes on most days.
Nahariya – Achziv Beach Escape (Banana beach)
After exploring Rosh Hanikra, you’re only a five-minute drive from some of Nahariya’s gorgeous beaches. We headed to the public Achziv Beach — also known as Banana Beach — and it was a great choice. The sand was clean, the facilities were in good shape, and a lifeguard stayed on duty until 17:00. There’s even a cozy café on-site for cold drinks and snacks.
To keep the beach pleasant for everyone, there are a few rules: no plastic plates or cups, no animals, no alcohol, and no playing music. If you want to turn your beach visit into an overnight adventure, Achziv also offers camping options — whether you’re bringing a caravan or prefer a ready-to-use, air-conditioned tent.
Kaziv river national park
The Kaziv River stretches about 40 km, beginning on Mount Meron and winding from the northeast to the northwest until it reaches the Mediterranean at Achziv Beach, between Nahariya and Rosh Hanikra. Along its length you’ll find several hiking routes, each with its own level of difficulty and a few great surprises along the way.
The middle section of the river flows year-round, making it especially perfect for hot summer days. Large parts of the trail involve walking right in the cool, refreshing water — the kind of break every Israeli summer hike desperately needs.
Getting there is easy: drive east from Nahariya on Road 89 for about 20 km until you reach the edge of Maalot-Tarshiha. From there, continue west along a short 500-meter dirt road, park, and begin the downhill walk toward Ein Ziv. Cars can’t continue past this point, so expect about a 40-minute descent (and yes, you’ll need to climb back up later). At the bottom, you’ll finally reach the Kaziv River, and from here you can choose how far you want to continue.
After about 2 km, you’ll reach the famous “Man in the Wall,” located inside the “Temples Cave.” Walk another 2 km and you’ll arrive at Ein Tamir — an amazing spring hidden inside a narrow cave. To reach the secret pool, you have to walk through the stone passageway in the dark, so it’s only for the brave (and definitely not for anyone claustrophobic). Another 2.5 km — some of it requiring a steep climb — will bring you to the dramatic Montfort Fortress, a Crusader stronghold built in the 12th century.
Overall, the Kaziv River National Park is considered one of the most beautiful nature destinations in Israel. Evergreen landscapes, clear flowing water, shaded trails, and natural pools make it a fantastic summer escape. Hats, good hiking shoes, and plenty of cold water are essential. The trail is generally suitable for ages 10–70, and thanks to the shade and water, it’s an unbeatable spot for warm-weather adventures.
