Zin Valley, Ein Avdat & Sde Boker
Our half-day tour with Arthur blended 4X4 driving through the ancient “Perfume Road” with hiking the lush Ein Zin oasis in the heart of the Zin Valley. From Nabatean water terraces near Sde Boker to breathtaking Ein Avdat views, Arthur’s stories and knowledge made the Negev adventure safe, wild, and unforgettable.
Written by Zvika Gasner Koheleth 12-December-2024 (Originally 13-April-2021) Photography by Angela Hechtfisch
Introduction
We joined Arthur du Mosch, a licensed Israeli tour guide, for a half 4X4 and half hiking adventure on a chilly, windy day in Sde Boker—pretty unusual weather for the Negev. But then again, Arthur himself is unusual, in the best way. Think “Indiana Jones,” both in look and personality.
Arthur speaks fluent English, Dutch, Hebrew, and German. Originally from the Netherlands, he moved to Israel in 1985 to study agriculture. His research focused on ancient Nabatean runoff systems and big mammals at the Jacob Blaustein Institute of Desert Research in Sde Boker’s Department of Ecology.
Today, Arthur’s specialty is the Negev Desert—especially the wild landscapes around Sde Boker, which he calls home, and the rugged beauty of the Zin Valley, which he knows like the back of his hand.
Think the desert is all calm vibes? Think again.
The desert has so much to give—endless open spaces, blue skies almost all year, and crisp, dry air that fills your lungs. It looks calm and inviting, but don’t be fooled—it can turn dangerous fast. Snakes and scorpions hide under rocks, the sun can knock you down with heatstroke or dehydration, and rare desert rains can flood valleys in minutes. Out here, safety comes first. If you want to truly enjoy the Negev’s wild beauty, do it with a professional guide who knows every trail and hidden corner.
Because honestly, without the stories behind the sand and stones, it’s just… sand and stones. And that’s where Arthur comes in—he’s packed with knowledge, passion, and the kind of tales that turn every view into an unforgettable experience.
Ein Zin oasis: 4X4 adventure & hike
We spent half a day with Arthur, mixing an off-road 4X4 ride along the ancient “Perfume Road” with a hike to Ein Zin oasis—an island of green in the middle of nowhere. Along the way, Arthur wowed us with the legendary story of how he once caught one of the last Negev leopards… with his bare hands, right in his bedroom! We also explored the impressive Nabatean water terraces near Sde Boker.
If you’ve read this far, you’ve probably guessed—this tour isn’t your average stroll. It’s challenging, adventurous, and best suited for ages 20–60 in good health who want to experience nature in its wildest form, but in the safest way possible.
Don’t head out unprepared to Zin valley! Good walking shoes, a hat, sunscreen, plenty of water, and a small snack are must-haves for this desert adventure. To make the most of your trip, remember to book your program in advance.
Ein Avdat Canyon
Ein Avdat, tucked near Sde Boker in the heart of the Negev, is one of Israel’s most stunning nature spots. It’s a deep canyon carved into white chalk cliffs by the Zin Stream, with dramatic walls, cool water pools, and even a small waterfall right in the desert. Walking along the main trail takes you between towering cliffs, with refreshing cool air that feels amazing even on hot days. Along the way, you might spot ibex leaping gracefully on the rocks or eagles of prey nesting in the cliffs.
If you’re after a relaxed outing, the main trail is perfect—about an hour to an hour and a half round trip. For more adventure, the extended route includes carved stone steps and iron ladders that add a little desert thrill. Beyond the wild scenery, visiting here gives you quiet moments, breathtaking views, and a reminder of the raw beauty of the Israeli desert.
Ein Avdat is a national park, so entry requires a ticket (31 NIS for adults, 16 NIS for kids). Access is by car, just off the southern descent from Midreshet Ben Gurion.
Ben-Gurion’s gravesite at Sde Boker
David Ben-Gurion (1886–1973) was Israel’s first Prime Minister and one of the country’s founding leaders. A driving force in the Labor Movement and the Zionist leadership under the British Mandate, he famously declared Israel’s independence in 1948. As both Prime Minister and Defense Minister, he laid the foundations of democracy, built national institutions, welcomed waves of immigration, and led the young state for more than a decade before retiring in 1970. He passed away in 1973 and was laid to rest beside his wife, Paula.
Today, Ben-Gurion’s gravesite lies in Sde Boker, near Midreshet Ben-Gurion, within the breathtaking Ein Avdat National Park. From this tranquil spot, visitors enjoy sweeping views of the Zin Valley and Avdat Plateau. Ben-Gurion and Paula chose this location for their final resting place, reflecting his lifelong dream to bring life to the desert and “make the Negev bloom.”
From the gravesite, the 5 km Ben-Gurion Promenade invites you to walk or cycle along a fully accessible path, dotted with scenic lookouts, shaded rest stops, and stunning desert panoramas.
And just up the road in Kibbutz Sde Boker (not to be confused with Midreshet Sde Boker, 5 km south) sits Ben-Gurion’s Hut — the modest home of David and Paula. Preserved exactly as it was on the day he died in 1973, the hut offers a unique glimpse into his simple lifestyle, his leadership, and the historic era he helped shape.
“Kedma” hotel at Sde Boker
Sde Boker sits about two hours south of Tel Aviv and another two hours north of Eilat—basically the middle of nowhere. That’s why we recommend treating yourself to an overnight at the brand-new 5-star Kedma Hotel right in Sde Boker. After a full desert day, a little luxury feels amazing. Another option is the stylish Bereshit Hotel in Mitzpe Ramon, but keep in mind it’s at least a 30-minute drive away.
