Tel Aviv Jaffa Must see places

Written by Zvika Gasner Koheleth 20-May-2019, Edited 29-December-2020, photography by Angela Hechtfisch

Tel Aviv-Jaffa General History Introduction

There are plenty of things to do in Tel Aviv-Jaffa, Israel’s economic, cultural, and technological center. The most populous city in the largest metropolitan area. With half a million inhabitants and an extra 1 million who commute to work every day during mornings. Tel-Aviv-Jaffa is located on the country’s Mediterranean coastline, with 2 harbors (mainly for tourism) and a sea marine. It’s name means “Old-new land,” and it is a free-style interpretation to a book title (in the German language) ‘Altneuland’ written by Zionist leader Theodor Herzel, signified his vision for returning the Jewish nation to it’s historical homeland. The city, first called “Ahuzat Bayit” (Home estate), was founded in 1909 as a modern Jewish society neighborhood on the outskirts of the ancient city of Jaffa. A group of 60 Jewish men, residents of Jaffa led by Akiva Aryeh Weiss, gathered for a land plot lottery on the beach dunes. The society’s goals were to form a “Hebrew urban center in a healthy environment, planned according to the rules of aesthetics and modern hygiene.” (See Iris Araviot, “Mythical Dimensions of the Tel-Aviv Century” 2011) Other Jewish suburbs outside Jaffa established before Tel Aviv eventually became part of Tel Aviv, such as Neve Tzedek, based in 1886. In 1921 Tel Aviv was given “township” status by the British mandate within the Jaffa municipality with a population of 15 thousand people. After the Jaffa riots in May 1921 with the attack of Arabs on the Jewish population many Jews left Jaffa for Tel Aviv, and the city increased its numbers from 2,000 in 1920 to around 34,000 by 1925. The town became an independent Municipality (from Jaffa) in 1934.

The Jewish population number rose dramatically during the “5th Aliyah” after the Nazis came into power in Germany in 1933, and 4 years later, the city grew to 150,000, compared to Jaffa’s 70,000 Muslim residents. In this period, the city changed its character from small businesses to a significant commercial & cultural center with an urban Burgan lifestyle.

One day before the country declared Independence on 14 May 1948 at “Meir Dizingof” house, also known as “Independence Hall” , the Jewish forces took over the city of Jaffa, and the Arab population was evacuated out of some parts of Jaffa. Due to the international dispute over the status of Jerusalem, most embassies remained in or near Tel Aviv, and the city became the temporary government center until December 1949. Complete unification of Tel Aviv with Jaffa occurred in 1950.

Tel Aviv Best Things To Do – Sea Beaches

There’s a saying that “the best things in life are for free”, so a complete list of things to do in Tel Aviv could NOT be full without mentioning the sea beaches that have NO entry fees. The Mediterranean temperatures are incredibly comfortable most of the year, and the bathing season starts at the end of April till mid-October. The sandy beaches are kept clean and with Baywatch guards.
The best beaches for the young public are the “Banana” beach and “Bugrashov” and for cool families is the “Meztiztim” beach. Still, precisely for the religious community, there is the “Nordow” beach (gender separated) and the “Hilton” beach focused on the Gay community. Keep in mind to bring your sunglasses, towel and do NOT forget the sunscreen.

Tel Aviv & Jaffa Harbors

Tel Aviv-Jaffa has two harbors, one in the north of Tel Aviv, built in the early ’30s of the previous century. The other is located at old Jaffa, dating back to 2,500 B.C . Nowadays, the two operate primarily for tourism hot spots. They include restaurants, food markets, pubs & bars and are highly safe during the day & night. Tel Aviv harbor also offers fashionable shops. At the corner of the ancient Jaffa harbor and the clock tower center lies the luxurious “Setai” hotel, and further uphill the luxuries Jaffa hotel. 

Old Jaffa

Jaffa is an ancient port city dated back to 2,500 B.C, mentioned as early in the bible with the story of Jona and the whale. Like much of South Tel Aviv, it has much pumped and fused with reconstruction, culture, restaurants, and nightlife in recent years. Jaffa port at the north aligns with the Tel Aviv sea promenade, making it a perfect stroll on a beautiful sunny day.

Jaffa’s flea market and its surrounding narrow streets are a well-known attraction of the city. Vendors sell a diverse range of exciting retro products, from vintage clothing to decorative artifacts. On “Yeffet” highstreet with the clock tower overlooking the sky scenery, you encounter several food establishments that you cannot skip, such as “Susu & Sons” (Hamburgers), “Abulafiya” (Eastern food), “Dr. Shakshuka (Shakshuka/Shawarma)”, and more. 

About the old Jaffa port, see the section in the paragraph above. Still, on the hill controlling the port skyline, one must visit Saint Peter’s Church where the Apostle Saint Peter had his famous vision/dream (determining that you may eat NONE kosher animals).

Also, in proximity to Saint Peter’s Church lies the “Ilana Gur” museum that bears the artist’s name, which any modern art lover should  investigate.

The “Carmel Market”

The Carmel Market first opened in 1920, and although much of the trade has now shifted to modern malls and the internet, the market is trendy, alive & kicking, with all walks of life from old locals to the hip young counter-culture. The hustle and bustle, vibrant noises, are intoxicating. Its narrow street is busy whenever you visit, particularly between Thursdays and Fridays, as residents buy products for the weekend meals; therefore, skip it from a visit on these days. Recent years have seen a growing number of trendy food establishments that make the “Carmel Market” a must-eat gastronomic jewel. Ranging from the “Panda” pita-bread, the “Burika” stand, “Shmuel” and his famous Kabab in a pita, the “Hamalabiya” great eastern style desert in 10 Shekels, and many many more.

The “Carmel Market”, or “Shuk HaCarmel” in Hebrew, borders with “Shenkin” street in the east, with “Nachlat Benjamin” promenade in the south and close to “Banana” beach to the west.

Dizengoff Square & Street

Being 10 minutes northeast walking distance from the Carmel Market, Dizengoff Square (formally known as Zina Dizengoff Square), is an iconic square on the corner of Dizengoff – Reines – and Pinsker Street, opened originally at 1938 on zero street level, and in 1978 being levitated allowing the traffic go under it. With much dissatisfaction with the Tel Avivian public opinion, it was seriously neglected by the municipality, and contributing to the fact that Dizengoff street, Israel’s most famous and luxurious high street, lost its reputation to other locations in Tel Aviv. But Nowadays, this sunny street is making its righteous comeback by the young audience.

In late 2018, after two years of complete renovations, the center was again to be on zero level making it unbelievably beautiful. It is a great attraction to the young and old, generating Dizengoff street to its central position in the city’s lifestyle again. In contrast, the locals prefer the open air with free sea breeze to the cement giants. The entire area has rejuvenated from the dark days of the 90’s and now inhabitants cool hipster joints, such as the “Frishman” Falafel, “Jusa” natural fruit juices & Yogurt delights, and more.

Dizengoff street is also the homeplace for the “Bauhaus” center focusing on Tel Aviv being Bauhaus “world white city” heritage capital, with its audio 2 hours walking tour. Just in the city’s heart and overlooking Dizengoff Square lies the Cinema Hotel set in a stylish Bauhaus-style building with a rooftop terrace that offers fantastic city views.

Tel Aviv “White City” and “Bauhaus Center”

The “White City” is a collection of over 4,000 buildings built in a unique form of the International Style in Tel Aviv from the 1930s, with a vital Bauhaus component, by Jewish architects from Germany and other countries with German Cultural influences, after and during the rise to power of the Nazis regime in Germany. Tel Aviv has the most significant number of buildings in the Bauhaus/International Style of any city in the world. For that, in 2003, “UNESCO” proclaimed Tel Aviv’s White City a World Cultural Heritage site, as “an outstanding example of new town planning and architecture in the early 20th century”.

The Bauhaus Center Tel Aviv located on 77 Dizengoff street, is an independent organization concern with raising awareness of the Bauhaus heritage and be part of the cultural and artistic development in Tel Aviv. The Bauhaus Center Tel Aviv organizes regular architectural tours of the city, operating 6 days a week. The walking tour with an audible guide is highly recommended featuring prominent Bauhaus buildings, built during the 1930s and 1940s with 13 stations with rational built up, starting with the basic Bauhaus fundamentals and ending with 3 renovated houses on Frug street. This 3 km tour surrounding Dizengoff street targets anyone interested in architecture, culture, history, and social ideology in general, and it is food for the spirit. At the rejuvenated Dizengof square, which is the heart of the Bauhaus tour, you can also feed the body at “La-Shuk” restaurant. Booking overnights at Tel Aviv reconstructed Bauhaus Hotels is a possibility and can also complete the experience.

Tel Aviv Museum of Art & Haaretz Museum

Speaking of culture, Tel Aviv-Jaffa has plenty of this to offer. The 2 biggest museums in Tel Aviv are the “Haaretz museum” in the north part of the city (Ramat Aviv), focusing on history and archeology and is best suited for young children, especially those who are fascinated with stars. The other is the “Tel Aviv museum of Art” that includes contemporary as well as classical exhibitions, mostly from private collections, in two independent facilities. Some of Picasso’s, Chagall, Van Gogh, and many other well known artists are exhibited, as well as contemporary modern presentations. The “Israeli Opera” is just a few meters away, so there is always a chance for a “quality” night out.

 Only 3 minutes away from the Museum is the “Sarona” German Colony.