Written by Zvika Gasner Koheleth, Photography by Angela Hechtfisch
Just like we promised ourselves, we returned to Jerusalem—not just once, but again and again, falling deeper in love each time. The Old City of Jerusalem quickly became familiar, its ancient, winding streets feeling like home.
From the iconic Jaffa Gate to David’s Tower, jerusalem kotel, strolling along Via Dolorosa, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and diving into the lively bazaar filled with intoxicating aromas—spices, mint, fresh sweets, vine leaves, pickles, dried fruits, and colorful woven baskets. With over 4,000 years of history, the Old City’s charm unfolds across four vibrant quarters—Jewish, Armenian, Christian, and Muslim—each with its own unique vibe, sights, and unforgettable scents.
The Christian Quarter, a vibrant hub of global Christianity, is home to numerous ancient churches, crowned by the legendary Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Exploring this corner of Jerusalem’s Old City feels like stepping into living history, where countless traditions continue to shape billions of lives.
Whether your heart is full of faith, curiosity, or something in between— the Church of the Holy Sepulchre calls to you. The air hums with spirit the moment you enter. Stand at Golgotha (11th station), where many believe Jesus was crucified. Pause at the place of his final breath (12th), touch the Stone of Anointing (13th), and step into the stillness of the Tomb (14th), where death met resurrection.
Travelers from every corner of the globe come to witness the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Three centuries after the crucifixion, Helena—mother of Emperor Constantine—identified the site, forever changing its destiny. Today, four Christian traditions—Armenian, Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, and Ethiopian—share its walls. Despite centuries of conquest and rebuilding, the church still pulls hearts in, thick with incense, hushed prayers, and the occasional tear of awe.
Skip the ticket line—it’s free. But crowds? They show up early and in full force!Visiting on special dates, like Easter Saturday (marking Jesus’ resting in the tomb), means facing huge lines but witnessing spectacular, unforgettable ceremonies.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is an eclectic structure, layered with history. Built in different periods, each section is managed by a different Christian denomination. It was originally identified as the site of Jesus’ crucifixion by Helena, mother of Roman Emperor Constantine, in the 4th century. Since then, it has withstood earthquakes, fires, and destruction—rebuilt time after time.
Helena is considered the first Christian pilgrim to the Holy Land. Her journey in the early 4th century marked the beginning of religious pilgrimage as a Christian tradition, setting a precedent for centuries to come. According to tradition, Helena ordered the destruction of a Roman temple on the site where the Church of the Holy Sepulchre stand nowadays , and—based on a legend that emerged in the late 4th century—began excavating in a location she chose herself. This led to the discovery of three crosses. The story appears fully in Rufinus’ additions to his Latin translation of Eusebius’ Ecclesiastical History (though the original text doesn’t mention the event). Rufinus recounts that Helena demanded clear proof of which cross belonged to Jesus. Possibly under the guidance of Bishop Macarius of Jerusalem, a gravely ill woman was brought forward. She touched the first and second crosses with no effect—but when she touched the third, she was miraculously healed. Helena then proclaimed this to be the True Cross.
If you’re strolling through Jerusalem’s bustling Muslim Quarter and need a quiet break, step into the Austrian Hospice—a peaceful haven near Station III of Via Dolorosa, right at the junction of El-Wad and Hajay streets. Owned by the Roman Catholic Church, this charming guesthouse opened in 1863 and feels like a hidden gem straight out of history, with beautiful gardens, stone walls, and timeless archways.
Once inside (sometimes you’ll need to ring the intercom), relax in their Viennese-style café and treat yourself to mouth-watering strudel or schnitzel, accompanied by Mozart tunes in the elegant indoor lounge or sunny garden.
During busy times, you might wait about 15 minutes in line. Thankfully, they now accept credit cards (since 2021)—hallelujah! And don’t skip the rooftop terrace: for just 5 shekels (cash only), you’ll enjoy stunning panoramic views of the Old City’s rooftops, churches, and mosques.
In the heart of the Old City of Jerusalem Christian’s Quarter lies the “Muristan,” once home to the Crusader-era “Hospitallers” who established a hospital here in the late 11th century—today transformed into an eye-care center. Nearby stands the iconic Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, Jerusalem’s second Protestant church, built between 1893-1898 by Friedrich Adler and inaugurated by German Emperor Wilhelm II and his wife Augusta Victoria.
Pay 15 shekels, tackle the 200-step narrow staircase (yep, it’s a climb!), and earn a breathtaking panoramic view over the entire Old City.
In the pictures above, the Jerusalem Old city Christian quarter, the “Muristan”, a complex of streets and shops, including the “Church of Redeemer”.
Named after a 13th-century Russian prince, Alexander Nevsky Church is a Russian Orthodox monastery in Jerusalem’s Christian Quarter—just steps from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and across from the Church of the Redeemer.
Built in 1860, it stands above fascinating archaeological remains. Beneath street level is a stone arch believed to be part of the “Judgement Gate,” through which Jesus may have passed on the way to Golgotha—challenging the traditional Via Dolorosa route.
Beside the gate lies a piece of Calvary rock, with a crucifix above it.
Inside, the church displays Gospel-themed murals and icons of Russian Orthodox saints. A symbolic golden coffin stands before the iconostasis, representing Jesus’ shroud.
The monastery is open daily, usually until 13:00. Entry costs 5 shekels. Modest dress is required—so come prepared.
Stroll through the Jewish Quarter’s charming alleyways, filled with vibrant bazaars offering souvenirs, colorful clothing, and delicious Eastern street food. These streets eventually open onto the majestic Western Wall Plaza.
The Western Wall (also known as the Wailing Wall, or the jerusalem kotel in Hebrew) is Judaism’s holiest site. It’s the last surviving retaining wall of the Second Temple, constructed by King Herod the Great. The Romans destroyed the Temple on the 9th of Av (70 A.D.), and since then, this sacred wall has been the heart of Jewish pilgrimage.
Above the jerusalem kotel sits the Temple Mount (Mount Moriah), now home to the Islamic Dome of the Rock. Non-Muslim visitors can enter the Temple Mount Sunday–Thursday (07:00–11:00 and 13:30–14:30) through the Mugrabi Gate, accompanied by Israeli Border Police.
For stunning panoramic views and memorable photos of the jerusalem kotel, head to the elevated balconies in the eastern section of the Jewish Quarter. Please respect local customs and avoid photographing on Saturdays (Shabbat).
Jewish festivals, like Shushan Purim or the Priestly Blessing during Passover, make the Wall exceptionally crowded, creating a fascinating atmosphere. Step up to the Western Wall and join in prayer. The area is divided by gender. Guys—grab a free paper kippah if you don’t have one. And everyone, dress modestly—it’s a must. Traditionally, visitors place personal prayer notes into the Wall’s crevices, hoping their wishes reach God. Entry is free.
Among the seven gates of Jerusalem’s Old City, the Jaffa Gate is the most popular entry point for tourists—and right beside it stands the Tower of David Museum, one of the city’s top attractions. This fascinating museum offers a deep dive into Jerusalem’s layered history, brought to life through a self-guided audio tour available in English, German, Russian, and Spanish. The tour takes about 1–2 hours and provides a step-by-step journey through the city’s past.
As of February 2026, entry costs 55 shekels for adults and 35 shekels for children, including the audio guide.
Set upon Mount Zion, it opens onto a place of profound meaning for both Jews and Christians, where faith, memory, and history gently converge. Descend below, where stone gathers silence. There rests a king. This is David’s Tomb—a sacred chamber of whispered prayers, reverently divided for men and women according to tradition.
Here, legend places the eternal repose of the shepherd boy who became a giant-slayer, the poet-king who united the Twelve Tribes of Israel. Walk softly. History and legend slumber within these walls.
Jewish tradition suggests that this site served as the dynastic burial place of King David’s lineage, including King David himself, his son King Salomon, and King Hezekiah—who preserved Jerusalem’s independence in the face of the mighty Assyrian Empire, and who commissioned the hewing of the Siloan Tunnel to secure a water supply within the city in anticipation of siege, a work that bears his name.
In 1913, the scholar and archaeologist Raymond Weill identified the Tomb of David at a rock-hewn site he uncovered near the passage of the Siloan Tunnel, beneath the city wall, in the area associated with the Pool of Shelah and the descent from the City of David. The tomb is understood to date to the early First Temple period. In Jewish tradition, burials within the city are generally avoided due to concerns of ritual impurity; however, an exception is made for royal burials, as reflected in the Book of Kings (1:10):
“Then David rested with his fathers and was buried in the City of David.”
There is little doubt that the site constitutes an ancient burial complex, portions of which were later damaged by quarrying during the Second Temple period, particularly in the days of Herod the Great, and subsequently under Roman rule. Weill’s identification corresponds with the description found in the Book of Nehemiah (3:15):
“And the fountain gate repaired Shallun the son of Colhozeh, the ruler of the district of Mizpah;
he built it, and covered it, and set up the doors thereof,
the bolts thereof, and the bars thereof, and the wall of the pool of Shelah by the king’s garden,
even unto the stairs that go down from the city of David.”
As for the later relocation of the traditional site of King David’s tomb, the reasons remain uncertain. It is plausible that Mount Zion, owing to its profound symbolic and religious significance for both Jews and Christians, gradually came to be associated with this venerated burial tradition.
Above David’s Tomb, you will find the Room of the Last Supper—a sacred space where time seems to pause.
Tradition holds that here, Jesus shared his final Passover meal with his disciples, offering bread and wine as symbols of his body and blood, a moment that became the heart of Christian communion. Not long after, betrayal followed, setting in motion the path toward judgment, suffering, and the crucifixion—turning a quiet meal into a moment that reshaped faith forever.
In art history, several iconic paintings depict this significant event, but two stand out above the rest. The most famous is Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, painted in 1495 on the wall of the dining hall (refectory) at the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan, Italy. Leonardo experimented with oil-based paints on dry plaster—a technique that sadly led to the fading of nearly 80% of the original colors over time.
A few years earlier, in 1480, Domenico Ghirlandaio painted the same scene in Florence. Unlike Leonardo’s work, his fresco stands out for architectural precision and realistic depiction of dining space.
The Early Church of Jerusalem is revered as the cradle of Christianity, emerging in the sacred aftermath of Jesus’ crucifixion. Within this ancient city—where devotion and longing intertwined—a humble yet steadfast community arose, proclaiming the resurrection of Christ, the promise of forgiveness, and the hope of His glorious return.
Tradition holds that this early Primative Church was divinely awakened at Pentecost, fifty days after Easter, when the Holy Spirit descended in radiant splendor. In that profound moment, unity transcended all boundaries, and the first believers became a living testimony to a universal promise: that through faith, all nations might share in peace, grace, and a common destiny under God.
Nestled just beyond the revered site of King David’s Tomb on Mount Zion lies a modest underground structure, set amid quiet greenery, often associated with these earliest gatherings.
While many regard it as the first meeting places of the Jerusalem Church, its origins are deeply rooted in Jewish antiquity. Archaeological features—most notably the separate descending and ascending stairways—strongly indicate its initial use as a ritual mikveh from the First Temple period.
Yet within this silent chamber, interpretations diverge. Some devout Jewish traditions speak of hidden passages leading to the resting place of King David and sacred treasures—an assertion widely regarded with skepticism and lacking substantive archaeological support. In contrast, Christian belief envisions it as a secret refuge where early followers of Jesus gathered in concealment during Roman pagan rule. The hidden chamber lends weight to this interpretation, while the altar appears to belong to a later period. Sealed for most of the year by the Greek Orthodox Church, the sanctuary of the Primative Church opens briefly on Pentecost, offering a rare glimpse into a place where history, faith, and mystery gently converge.
The Mount of Olives is a prominent mountain ridge located on the eastern side of unified Jerusalem, offering a stunning view of the Old City. Its name comes from the olive groves that once covered its slopes. For over 3,000 years, the mount has served as a major Jewish cemetery, with approximately 150,000 graves. According to Jewish law, burial is not permitted within the walls of the city, which is why the Mount of Olives became the preferred burial site.
In Jewish tradition, the Mount of Olives holds deep spiritual significance, especially in light of Ezekiel chapter 37, which tells the prophecy of the “Valley of the Dry Bones” – a vision of resurrection and national rebirth. Tradition holds that in the Messianic era, those buried on the Mount of Olives will be the first to rise, as they face directly toward the Mercy Gate (Sha’ar HaRachamim) of the Temple Mount.
Yad Avshalom rises with quiet grandeur in the Kidron Valley, suspended between the Mount of Olives and the Temple Mount. Resting along the gentle slope of the mount, it stands among other noble funerary monuments, including the Tomb of the Sons of Hezir and the Tomb of Zechariah, forming a timeless procession of stone and memory.
Its name echoes an ancient tradition that attributes the monument to Avsalom, the son of King David—a gesture of longing and legacy. Yet archaeology tells a more measured story, dating the tomb to the 1st century BCE, centuries after Avsalom’s life, where history and legend softly intertwine.
Avshalom, the eldest son of King David, realized that the crown would pass to Salomon and not to him. From that moment of quiet heartbreak, rebellion was born. David fled Jerusalem by night, crossing toward Mahanaim with six hundred loyal followers, leaving behind ten concubines to guard the palace.
At dawn, Avshalom entered Jerusalem and lay with his father’s concubines, fulfilling Nathan’s prophecy spoken after David’s sin with Bat-sheva, the wife of Uriah the Hittite. Ignoring the counsel of Ahithophel, Avshalom failed to pursue his father while victory was within reach. David regrouped, and in the forests of Gilead, the battle’s tide turned. While fleeing Avshalom was caught by his hair in a tree and slain by Yoav son of Zeruiah, against King David’s explicit command—turning triumph into tragedy.
In Islamic tradition, the Mount of Olives plays a significant role in the events of the end of days. It is believed that the Scales of Justice will be placed on the mount to weigh each person’s good and bad deeds. A thin, sharp bridge—spanning over Hell—will stretch between the Mount of Olives and the Temple Mount. The righteous will cross it safely, while the wicked will fall into the abyss below.
For Christians, the Mount of Olives is packed with meaningful moments from Jesus’s life, which is why it became one of the world’s most important pilgrimage spots.
Its deep connection to both Jesus and the Virgin Mary inspired the building of several major churches nearby, including:
The Church of All Nations
The Russian Orthodox Church of Mary Magdalene
The Tomb of the Virgin Mary, revered by the Greek Orthodox Church
(Some traditions place Mary’s resting place at the Dormition Abbey near Zion Gate.)
At this Garden Jesus taught his disciples and prophesied the destruction of Jerusalem. It is also where he spent the night after the Last Supper and was betrayed by Judas with the infamous kiss, leading to his arrest by Roman soldiers. According to tradition, this is also the area where Jesus spent 40 days after his resurrection before his Ascension to Heaven.
Today, at the Garden of Gethsemane, you’ll find an ancient olive orchard dating back to the time of Jesus, right next to the Church of All Nations.
One of the most powerful moments linked to the Mount of Olives is Jesus’s triumphal entry into Jerusalem, seen by Christians as his public Messianic moment. Today, it lives on through the Palm Sunday procession, starting on the Mount of Olives, passing the Garden of Gethsemane, entering through the Lion’s Gate, following the Via Dolorosa, and ending at the St. Anne’s Church.
Palm Sunday stands as the sacred threshold to Easter, observed on the Sunday preceding the Resurrection. Its name is drawn from the palm branches raised and waved by the assembled crowd, who welcomed Him with reverence and praise as He entered the Holy City.
Across many Christian traditions, the day is marked by the blessing and distribution of palm branches, recalling that ancient gesture of devotion. While some note the abundance of palms during the Jewish festival of Sukkot, the Gospel narratives place this entry in the days before Passover.
According to the Gospel accounts, Jesus entered Jerusalem in humility, riding upon a white donkey and approaching the Mercy Gate—thus fulfilling the prophecy of Zechariah concerning the coming Messiah: “Behold, your king comes to you; righteous and having salvation is he, humble and mounted on a donkey, on a colt, the foal of a donkey” (Zechariah 9:9). In that serene yet sovereign moment, humility and kingship converged, and prophecy seemed to take living form in history.
The Mercy Gate has remained sealed since 1541. In Jewish tradition, the Messiah is destined to enter Jerusalem through this eastern gate. Many hold that the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent ordered it closed in an effort to forestall the fulfillment of that ancient expectation.
On the eastern ridge of ancient Jerusalem, upon the slope known as the Ophel, just south and humbly below the Temple Mount, rests the City of David — a hill woven with memory and destiny.
It bears the name of King David, the shepherd-poet of Bethlehem, son of Yishai, ruddy-haired and bright-eyed, who once sang to the wind and guarded his father’s flock beneath open skies. According to Christian belief, from the lineage of David the Messiah will arise. Jesus is believed to have descended from the House of David — a royal bloodline woven into prophecy, promise, and redemption.
After seven years and six months reigning in Hebron, David chose Jerusalem as the heart of his united kingdom — a neutral ground belonging to the tribe of Benjamin, not Judah, his own — a quiet gesture of unity, gathering the twelve tribes beneath one crown, one hope.
Warrior and dreamer, David felled Goliath in the Valley of Elah with nothing but faith and a sling. He led Israel against the Philistines and made Jerusalem its spiritual pulse. Yet he would not build the First Temple; that honor was granted to his son Salomon, born of Bat-sheva, after David’s sin and sorrow.
His life unfolded in triumph and in tragedy — Saul’s relentless pursuit, the prophet Nathan’s rebuke, and the dark prophecy that “the sword shall not depart from your house.” It came to pass: Amnon’s violence against Tamar, Avsalom’s vengeance and rebellion, the king’s exile, and finally the heartbreaking death of Avsalom in the battle of Gilead.
Many identify this hill with ancient “Shalem,” the Canaanite root of the name Jerusalem, later a Jebusite stronghold. When David conquered it, Jerusalem became the capital of a united Israel — a political, spiritual, and sacred center in the days of the First Temple.
Here still flow the waters of the Gihon Spring, whispering through Hezekiah’s Tunnel and Warren’s Shaft — passages carved in stone and faith. Through such channels, as the Book of Samuel tells, David’s men climbed and captured the fortress of Zion: “And David took the stronghold of Zion; the same is the City of David.”(Samuel I–II)
In 1880, within the Siloam Tunnel, an ancient inscription was discovered — a tender testimony to two teams of miners who carved through rock from opposite ends and met in the darkness. It speaks of King Hezekiah’s preparations in 701 BCE, before the Assyrian threat of Sennacherib — of water redirected, of a city bracing for siege, of survival etched in stone.
At the southern edge lies the Pool of Siloam, where the waters of Gihon gather. Excavations revealed the grand pool of the Second Temple period, where pilgrims purified themselves before ascending toward the Temple Mount during the three sacred festivals. Nearby rests a Byzantine pool, layered gently upon the memories of earlier days.
Archaeology continues to unveil homes from the First Temple era — the House of Ahiel, with its carved stone toilet hinting at nobility; the House of Bullae, where clay seals were found, one bearing the name Gemariah son of Shaphan, scribe of King Jehoiakim, in whose chamber the words of Yirmiyahu once echoed.
Thus the City of David stands — a place where water flows through time, where poetry meets prophecy, where kings rose and wept, and where the stones still remember.
Hummus is a serious affair in Israel, and the Old City of Jerusalem offers some legendary spots. One of the most iconic—and quirkiest—is Abu Shukri, Located on HaGay Street, the Via Dolorosa’s Fourth Station. Another great way to kick off your day is with a visit to Lina Hummus in El-Hattika Street on the Christian Quarter, just a short walk from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Both places for around $25 for two people, you’ll enjoy a freshly made, creamy plate of authentic hummus. People line up for a reason—so get ready to wait a bit!.
Another great hummus spot is Hummus Akwarmi, located just outside Damascus Gate on HaNevi’im Street (open Sunday–Friday, 7:00–14:30).
Enough with hummus—save room for dessert.! Just beside the Damascus Gate is the legendary Jafar Sweets, famous for serving one of the best Knafeh in the country. But craving a classic European dessert? The apple strudel at the Austrian Hospice is an absolute must.
Outside the Old City, the main culinary hotspot—both in Jerusalem and across the country—is the incredible Mahane Yehuda Food Market On Jaffa Street, packed with restaurants and cozy coffee shops. Hit the iconic Machneyuda restaurant for bold Jerusalem fusion, go full carnivore at Hatzot, dive into authentic Bukharian flavors at Morduch, and grab genius stuffed pastries at Ishtabach. Unlike the Old City’s budget bites, here you’ll spend around $50-100 per person — not exactly street-food prices, but living good has its price.
Jerusalem offers accommodations for every budget and style—from the luxurious Mamilla Hotel, overlooking the Jaffa Gate, to the boutique charm of Villa Ba’Moshava. Many hotels offer special deals during Christmas, Easter, and other major holidays.
Shopping in the Old City is a vibrant experience. Vendors fill the bazaar from Jaffa Gate to Damascus Gate with colorful souvenirs—ceramics, embroidered textiles, wooden carvings, ancient-style jewelry, and more. Prices are generally affordable, especially in local stalls.
For something more upscale, head to the Sandrouni Armenian Art Center on St. James Street in the Armenian Quarter. There you’ll find handcrafted Armenian ceramic art of museum quality—at a higher price, but worth every shekel.
In the Christian Quarter Photo Elia is an old-school photography shop, run by an Armenian family for three generations. Visitors flock to the shop for its rare and striking vintage prints of Jerusalem. In the 1990s, George, Elia’s son, began selling framed prints of his father’s photographs. The shop soon earned a reputation for its exceptional photographic art, which remains its main attraction. Elia’s grandson runs it today, proudly continuing the family legacy.
Dreaming of a getaway in Israel? Luxury stays & great prices – Because your next vacation deserves a smart deal.
Dreaming of a getaway in Jerusalem? Luxury stays & great prices – Because your next vacation deserves a smart deal.
Dreaming of a getaway in Israel? Luxury stays & great prices – Because your next vacation deserves a smart deal.
